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New Zealand MW trip

New Zealand MW trip

I was privileged to be a part of the recent MW trip to this spectacular country in February.

We started in Waiheke, an exquisite island off Auckland. Waiheke used to be a bit too far for commuters, and with a weird Belgian history (one of the main towns is called Ostend), it was for many years a hippy, surfy place. The wine aspect of this changed with the arrival of Steve White, a sailor who called the sea his home, who founded Stonyridge and produces one of the now most celebrated wines in New Zealand, Larose. There are winemakers and brewers from Argentina, the States, and Germany on the island too.

A fantastic welcome dinner with Sir George and Lady Fistonich, of Villa Maria helped kick off the trip in grand style. They are of English extraction, hence the title, but very proud to be among the pioneers of the whole New Zealand industry, much of which was founded by the Croatians amongst whom George grew up.

Next we flew (courtesy of Air New Zealand, one of the sponsors of our whole trip) to Napier, to see Hawkes Bay. Startled by the Syrahs, Chardonnays and other warmer climate varieties, our first welcome was at Elephant Hill, a truly spectacular German-owned winery with a vista to the sea and a superyacht-level villa draped with a priceless, tasteful art collection. Around Hawkes Bay we tasted wines from Trinity Hill (Scottish owned), Craggy Range and many others. One highlight was a visit to Te Mata to taste a vertical of their flagship wine, Coleraine, an exquisite Bordeaux Blend named after their Northern Irish origins.

Onwards to Wairarapa, encompassing Gladstone, Masterton and Martinborough. As we moved south, the wines became cooler, but the welcome was no less warm. ‘Wai’ is the Maori (pronounced ‘Moorie’) word for ‘water’, which explains why quite so many of New Zealand’s place names have ‘wai’ in them, all the more so for wine areas. Wonderful Pinot Noirs and all manner of other wines from, amongst many stellar examples: Ata Rangi, Dry River, and Kusuda, made by Hiroyuki Kusuda, from Japan.

We drove south, through gorgeous gorges and monumental mountains towards Wellington to board our ferry to Blenheim, for our first encounter with Marlborough (all named after English places and people!). Against the forecast (a relief for some and a mild disappointment for others) the Cook Strait and Marlborough Sounds were as flat as anything, and our crossing entirely cyclone-free. The scenery was breathtaking.

We tasted at Astrolabe, and found so much more than Sauvignon, including the punkiest-trousered punky winemaker I have met, Andrew from Framinham, a proud Geordie from Gateshead (with a late-night drinking ethic to match!) who fashions one of the finest Rieslings I have ever tasted – rightly awarded as such and one of the best in the country. There were many other highlights from No 1 Family, Greywacke and many others, and I finally got to meet the lovely Jane Hunter, whose wines I have admired for decades.

Next, in a thankfully sea-worthy collection of largely German and Japanese four-wheel drive vehicles we went on our long planned Marlborough Vineyard Safari. Monsoon safari. It was just huge fun. The Awatere River (re-pronounced as ‘a watery’) had been almost dry the day before, but the cyclonic rains – much needed – had swelled it into a torrent that made fording it a challenge for all but the hardiest of our winemaker chauffeurs. I was with Simon from Astrolabe, and he was driving a borrowed car, so I have no idea whether he was buoyed by that or not. But we were. Everyone made it across.

Of course we tasted Sauvignon Blanc, but oh how so much more complex it can be. Deft use of lees, malolactic, oak, and handling has resulted in a panoply of different flavours that would have been unthinkable only a few decades ago. A wonderful lunch undercover at Aunstfield was the venue for us to discover Savvy delights from producers such as Spy Valley and Clos Henri (from France).

Then a real highlight, in a sea (or atmosphere perhaps) of highlights. Air New Zealand, generous sponsors of the trip with other travel, wine and help, had provided us with our own plane – the All Black Plane, on a private flight from Blenheim to Christchurch, via Marlborough, Nelson, and the Canterbury valleys. It was just perfect.

The vineyards of North Canterbury were an amazing discovery. Michael Henley popped up again. Now there’s a man who really needs to get his arse into gear to write a Research Paper, become an MW, and get private flights from Air NZ, instead of having to make his own way. At Pyramid Valley, we met my namesake MW, Steve Smith (Michael’s colleague, so – you know – have a go…) and encountered some truly fabulous wines from many estates, scarcely known outside their homeland for reasons of exclusivity and absence of need. Well, they are now. Black Estate, Pegasus Bay, Bell Hill and The Boneline, were amongst many highlights for me.

Via Christchurch, we then transited the Southern Alps from the luxury of our nothing-to-distract-you-from-the-view coach. We saw Aoraki / Mount Cook, from the shores of Lake Pukaki with crystal clear skies and limpid emerald waters. It was very special. No WiFi obviously, but perhaps even more special for that.

Onwards to Central Otago to resist photographing what is, apparently, the most photographed vineyard in the world. No-one managed this. And nor could we resist the wines. Majoring on Pinot Noir (but with more than enough Riesling, Chardonnay and other delights too), we were treated to three very specially organised, and brilliantly orchestrated masterclasses on all aspects of Otago Pinot Noir. A revelation as we discovered less oak, less alcohol, less extraction of fruit, but more scintillation, more elegance, grace, satin and texture. Valli, Rippon, Doctors Flat, Felton Road, Wooing Tree, Two Paddocks, Mount Edward and myriad others, producing a tapestry of variations on the grape that I don’t believe anyone would have credited only a few years ago. Stunning wines and a stunning end to our vinous odyssey of adventure and discovery, in the Scotland-like (Bannockburn for example!) scenery of the majesty of the South Island.

One thing to take from all of the above is that this is a (largely) British founded, Croatian consolidated, globally influenced, internationally owned and operated, wine industry in a country settled by the Maori around 1000 years ago, and Western Europeans about 700 years after that.

Everyone we met was an immigrant of some sort.

And so were all of us.

New Zealand is the most welcoming and cosmopolitan country I have every visited and the New Zealanders can feel very proud of being able to call it home. I know I would be.

Te Aroha
Te Whakapono
Me Te Rangimarie
Tatou Tatou E

(Love. Faith. Peace. Be amongst us all)

An extraordinary vote of thanks to everyone who hosted us, wherever they were from, and especially to Jane Skilton MW and Emma Jenkins MW for making all the above happen in such a wondrous way.

Rod Smith MW

Woodinville seminar

Woodinville seminar

After many years in discussion, 2019 marked the first year that stage 1 and stage 2 North America seminars were separated. Thanks to the very generous support of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, stage 1 now has its very own seminar week at Chateau Ste. Michelle in picturesque Woodinville outside of Seattle, WA. So it was with much excitement that our wonderful team of MWs and students headed northwest to Ste. Michelle at the end of January. Fifteen MWs including four of our newest NA MWs from the 2018 crop (Caroline Hermann MWElsa Macdonald MWNicolas Quillé MW and Martin Reyes MW) comprised the MW teaching team.

As ever, the NA S1 program was popular. This year we had 57 students from 13 countries. The study week itself kicked off on Monday 28 January. Leading into the seminar week, students also had the opportunity to attend a weekend pre-program – a deep dive into Washington wines and winery visits. Thirty five students participated in the program, which was generously organised by the Washington Wine Commission and the Woodinville Wine Country Association.

The seminar week was packed – each morning starting with a practice 12 wine blind tasting, including a calibration type tasting Monday, led by Peter Marks MW, on which students received small group or individual feedback on one question to help prepare them for the rigours of the mock exam the following (Tuesday) morning. The MW team was fully on hand to grade the mock exams – and individual feedback was given to students on Friday afternoon. Student feedback continues to demonstrate how much students value this one-on-one feedback as they progress with their studies.

All week, we had a stellar line up of plenary sessions and guest speakers to fill the afternoons. Highlights included Ernst Loosen (Dr. Loosen) from the Mosel, who led an amazing discussion and tasting of 12 Riesling wines, under different lees aging conditions, including the spectacular 1981 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Heritage edition, which having spent 27 years on its lees was still wonderfully tight and racy. Dr. Kevin Pogue, an esteemed geology professor at Whitman College, Walla Walla gave an extraordinary detailed presentation on his 20 year long geological and soil research into Washington State vineyards. Annette Alvarez-Peters, Asst. Vice President/GMM, Beverage Alcohol for Costco paired up with D C Flynt MW and winemaker Marco di Giullio for a fascinating session on the product development process for private label and control brands.

Another afternoon, four MW winemakers paired with four Ste. Michelle winemakers & cellar techies for a Down & Dirty in the cellar session – a deep dive into theory papers 2 and 3. Other highlights included a Bordeaux vintages comparative tasting and discussion of three red and three white vintages; a presentation on the US and Canadian regulatory markets as well as five theory sessions to help students tackle questions, plan, structure and write passing essays.

The entire Washington State wine community welcomed the MW students with incredible warmth and hospitality. Evenings were filled with extensive interactive tastings (and great food) and a chance not just to taste a vast array of Washington State wines, but also to talk with winery owners and winemakers. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, The Washington Wine Commission and the Woodinville Wine Country Association each hosted separate evening events.

It takes a team, and Woodinville 2019 would not have been possible without the energy and commitment from my fellow MWs, or without the incredible work from our amazing NA Administrator, Nancy Johnson and Olly Chapman at HQ. A special thanks also goes to Bob Betz MW, a luminary in the Washington State wine community and instrumental in helping pull the pre-program together.

Mary Gorman-McAdams MW

Odney seminar

Odney seminar

The ratio of 1,000 Riedels per student is only just enough for the stage two seminar at Odney. They are delivered en masse at the beginning of the week, lined up against one side of a corridor, each tray being emptied then refilled with used glasses as the seminar progresses, like some kind of bizarre abacus of progress. This system ran like clockwork, as did the rest of the week, thanks in large part to the help of Angus ‘Odney Dangerfield’ Brook and Patrick ‘Odney Trotter’ O’Reilly as well as the team of 14 MWs who attended.

Seminars ranged from a technical masterclass on Chardonnay winemaking to a lecture on the importance of communication to a series of miniature debates in which the winning teams won a bottle of leftover Mateus rosé, while the runners-up won two bottles. Some rather more impressive prizes were on offer too – and indeed the whole week provided an important opportunity to experience wines whose rarity and/or cost can be prohibitive, including Cockburns 1983, Promontory 2009, Lynch Bages 2009, Suduiraut 2010 and the aforementioned Mateus among many others.

Richard Hemming MW

Odney practical only seminar

Odney practical only seminar

From my perspective, the highlight of Odney this year was observing and being part of the ongoing evolution of this seminar. Over the six years I’ve been involved, we’ve built up a truly international group of MWs who travel to Odney each year and represent some of the diversity of the IMW. I feel our biggest achievement has been the move to giving candidates their mock results on the same day that they sit the paper and also the introduction of a degree of one-to-one feedback on day one. Neither of these were an innovation for 2019, but the pace of the course and the amount of marking required by each MW was extremely well managed this year – long gone are the days of 0730h decanting and still being marking at 0200h the next morning. Equally as important has been the shift in ’timbre’ to a more collegiate and ‘coaching-based’ format and away from a more didactic approach. This, again, has been subtle and is more widespread than just Odney, but I feel it has made a huge difference to the candidates – and the MWs.

Beyond these observations, I think the highlights of 2019 Odney (practical only) were the afternoon tasting seminars, in which we moved away from yet more blind tasting and tried to offer a slightly different angle that was much more discussion-based. I wasn’t able to sit in every session, but I’d give special mention to Justin Knock’s California class and especially his fascinating exposition of Californian geology and plate tectonics!

The other highlight was the staff curry. Bajis the size of my head!

Matthew Hemming MW